Cheap Chefs: Meyer vs. Pépin

Back when this site was just an idea I'd kick around from time to time, I came across an article on Bitten, the excellent blog that Mark Bittman--a.k.a. "The Minimalist"--puts together for the New York Times in addition to his weekly column. Written by sometime contributor Daniel Meyer, it gave a shopping list and recipe for a $20 dinner party for four. My first thought: "This is what I'm talking about!" However, panic quickly ensued: Cooking on the cheap was what I wanted to talk about--would this article render my hoped-for blog moot?

But after reading the thing, I see now that I had no reason to fear. While Meyer might have spent only $20 at the farmer's market, his dish wound up costing exceptionally more. I quote:

"So as not to drive myself too crazy, I am making an allowance for the use of ordinary pantry and fridge staples (oil, butter, garlic, onion, broth, sugar, salt, pepper, etc. ...oh, yes, and wine)..."

Uh-huh. The man, methinks, assumes too much. Despite the fact that I love to cook and dish about food, I can tell you right now that I am totally out of garlic;  I might have a corner of an onion lurking in my fridge, but, then again, I might not; I'm pretty sure I still have a bottle of wine left over from the weekend, but it's cocktail hour in the Two, Cheap household so I can pretty much kiss that goodbye...

The more I think about Meyer's allowances,  the angrier I get. As someone who lives in NYC--where space is at a premium--the idea of Meyer assuming that I have room for these extras makes me bristle. What's more, it's generally the so-called "staples" that drive my grocery bills into the stratosphere. The last time I bought olive oil it ran me $14. Chicken stock or broth isn't cheap to buy either (especially if you opt for organic), and neither is veal stock--which Meyer decides to throw in at the last second because "it was sitting idly by in [his] freezer and [he] couldn't help [himself]."

What hooey. 

Thankfully, the affable and user-friendly Jacques Pépin understands the dilemma of the cash-strapped cook. Shortly after I read (and fumed over) Meyer's posting The Washington Post ran a similar--albeit infinitely more successful--piece. In the end, Pépin cooks a five-course meal for six with only $24 in groceries. For the record, that's $24 with the wine included.

Now there's a feat worth raising your glass to.